Another pondless water feature...

I love my swing…

It is one of my “happy places.”

But as I was hobbling back to the house after expanding my back floor bed….

…I realized it was missing something really special.

A water feature!

I shared HERE how I added two pondless water features next to the front porch and by the screened porch.

Relatively simple little features but I wanted something bigger next to the swing.

I would love to have an open “pond” but again, too many leaves….so another pondless feature it is…but this time BIGGER!

First thing…find some inspiration. Pinterest never fails. This is one of many I found (again, didn’t keep the link, just the pic…sorry!)

One of the first hurdles is electricity…the water pump has to have electricity. No biggy for me because I have minimal electrical skills. But if you do not, and there isn’t a power source close by, you may have to hire an electrician.

In my case I have power on the other side of the swing at the house. I ran romex through PVC underground from one side of the swing to the house. I ran the romex underground through PVC because I created a flower bed along the back of the swing and I knew that over time I would be digging around in it and don’t want to risk nicking romex. Then I added a plug (similar to THIS) to the end of the romex. I connected the other end to an exterior electric outlet attached to the back of the swing pergola.

TIP: ALWAYS put romex that will be under ground in conduit. They make a conduit specifically for electrical wiring. It is usually double the cost of plain ole’ PVC. I use plain ole” PVC.

I bought a larger tank at the livestock store. One with a bigger diameter so I could use bigger rocks and build a bigger feature. (I use livestock tubs…less expensive, better size selection and actually sturdier!)

I found a livestock tub that was about 5’ x 3’ which was the perfect size to fill the area next to the swing.

Marked the area where I wanted to put the tub and started digging. (I make this sound easy…it was not…I honestly believe we live on a rock quarry!)

CURSES! Right smack dab in the middle of my planned placement I ran into an irrigation line! Since it was a main line I really didn’t want to mess with relocating it!

This is when I had to stop and punt…in other words, best laid plans got tossed!

I relied heavily on THIS great tutorial…it is one I found that was most similar to what I was trying to accomplish.

I used a pond liner rather than a tub. A pond liner will give you flexibility on size and shape. I found a really good quality one HERE. More expensive than a livestock tub and more expensive than the pond liners at places like Lowes and Home Depot. However, this one is 45 mil thick which is double what you can buy at the big box stores. I figure if I am going to go to all the time and expense of building this thing, I want it to last. The thicker liner reduces the chances of tears or punctures.

Without the limitations of a specific tub size, I could dig the hole any size I wanted…I ended up digging a “two level” hole to work around the irrigation line.

One change from the tutorial…I don’t ever like to use wood under ground if at all possible. Eventually it will break down. So I used some scrap treated plywood to create a rigid box, then lined it with styrofoam board. They say it takes 500 years for styrofoam to decompose. I figure by that time the ground around the liner will have settle and compacted well.

In the picture you may note I did not “frame” the upper part of the reservoir…I went back later and added a “frame.”

I added the frame, then added the sand on the bottom so that it would hold the frame in place and create a nice “cushion” for the liner!

I dug out around the form about 4” deep and 8-10” around it and added small pea gravel…kind of creates a little “french drain” around the pond. This keeps dirt and silt from washing into the reservoir if there is heavy rain. The rock is 1-2” below the frame.

I used my taper to make sure the pea gravel and sand was compacted well.

I liked the way the tutorial used the cinder blocks for additional support. I used THIS metal gate as a grate and reinforced it with 1/2” rebar to set the rocks on.

After I laid the liner in the hole, I filled the pond with water to get the liner to kind of “form” to the bottom and sides.

I reset the cinder blocks, measured to make sure they were the right height and level, then placed the grate and rebar.

If the cinder blocks are too high or too low to support the grate level, you can easily reach under the liner and remove or add sand as needed. You may have to drain the pond to do this but make sure you refill it…the weight of the water will “fit” the liner to the space.

I use a shop vac to drain the water when needed.

I trimmed the liner back, topped the liner with more pea gravel, put the pump down in the water, reset the grate and rebar and then covered it all with THIS galvanized mesh. This will keep any smaller decorative rocks from falling into the reservoir.

I waited to cut the access hole for the pump until after I got the larger rocks set…I wanted to make sure I would have access to the pump without moving the large rocks.

I set the pump down into the reservoir and I ran 1/2” water line from the pump to above the grate. I knew I wanted both a waterfall and a bubble rock so I actually split the water line into two lines. I connected one line from the pump to this splitter, then connected a 1/2” line to one side, and another to the other.

Two water lines from one pump!

I made one major change from the original water features. Since I had plenty of room in this larger reservoir, I put the pump in one of THESE filter boxes….

I had a pump in my water feature at the other house in one of these. I found that the actual pump (THIS one) was less likely to clog and loose pressure when it is in a filter system box. (BTW, you will want to get a water pump for YOUR needs….the size of your feature and the flow you want)

I picked up a variety of rocks at the rock store…some flagstone, native stone, and smaller decorative rock…then I started playing with it.

This is where a little creativity and some serious muscle come in handy. Again, I knew I wanted a waterfall feature as well as a bubble rock.

I ran the water tubing through the back of the rocks for the waterfall but I had to drill a hole for the bubble rock. Not a biggy…I just used a 3/8” masonry bit…takes a little time and muscle but it is doable.

Only after I got the majority of the larger rocks placed did I cut an access into the grate with a metal grinder. I didn’t want to have to move large rocks to get to the pump. (I have learned the hard way to make the access big enough that you don’t shred your arm when you have to stick your hand down into the reservoir.)

After I cut the access I covered the hole with the wire mesh.

Once the big stones were set in place, I adjusted everything to make sure that all the water flowed back into the reservoir. This can take some time…even days. You have to watch the water level and make adjustments as needed.

TIP: When you get rock, pick up some slivers of flagstone to use as shims!

After all the adjustments, I sucked out all the water and cleaned the pond well and then I filled it with fresh water. Placed all the decorative rocks….added some plants!

After some more adjusting this is the initial placement I came up with….

It may take a few days of adjusting to make sure that all the water is flowing back into the reservoir. This is super important because you don’t want to have to be constantly filling it! Watch and wait.

Honestly, I wouldn’t even put rock over the access hole until you are certain that it is all flowing properly!

As you can see in my final pictures, I actually removed all the small rock from the top of the access and placed a few larger pieces of flagstone. Now instead of moving a bazillion little rocks, I just pick up a few larger rocks to access the system…much easier! Just make sure that any water that flows onto those rocks, flows back into the reservoir!

A few weeks after I got the feature running, I decided to create a little “walk” around the swing and feature. It ties into the walk I had added between the house and the swing….

I added a little flower bed behind the swing so I would have space to put hosta splits next spring. Unfortunately three of my hostas were getting stomped by dogs so I went ahead and moved them here…now I only have room for 2-3 hostas next year. Curses, I will have to build another bed!

I added outdoor lights behind the fountain so that at night the lights shine through the waterfall….so pretty. Unfortunately, my photography skills don’t allow for a good picture…trust me, it’s pretty!

I love this little space! The sound of the water is so soothing.

While the project itself takes a little muscle (digging, moving rock) it is certainly a doable little project. Maybe a hair more extensive than these water features. If you feel intimidated by the scale of this feature, maybe start with smaller ones first!

You don’t have to pay thousands to get a pretty water feature in your yard…and in my opinion it should go down as a mental health expense. All in all this one probably cost me less than $1000.

Nothing more soothing than a relaxing evening in the porch swing next to a water feature!

BTW, in one of the Facebook groups I am on someone was commenting about how much of a hassle a pond is to clean and maintain. It would be soooo easy to turn an open pond into a pondless feature. After all, the hard work of digging a hole is already done!!!!

These little pondless features are relatively easy to maintain. I drain them before the first freeze, cover them with plastic and then in the spring I just remove the plastic, clean out the reservoir, fill it with fresh water and fire it back up. So much easier to maintain than my open pond that had to be drained and cleaned several times a year!

Just a thought!

Changing dated can lights!

My wing is broken.

Poo.

It’s my elbow…it is still boogered. I am trying to “heal” it by resting it but after about a month I’m ready to give up and see what a ortho dude can do for me.

While “resting” I pretty much sit around and look for stuff to do.

Laying on the couch, looking at the ceiling, I began to obsess about my dated can lights

SUPER simple fix and on a scale of 1-10 it is pretty much a 1.

This is what I have….

…an ugly old can light with a bulb. It had obviously been painted over when the prior owner painted the ceiling. I have five in the kitchen, two in the den, four in the living room, two in the bedroom and four in the bathroom…so yes, they annoy me. But truthfully only when I am laying on the couch or in the bed looking at the ceiling.

While they are “dated,” truth be told no one really pays attention to them except of course when a bulb goes out.

This is where I want to say that when “they” say an LED bulb lasts 10 years, “they” lie.

Beside the point…point is, it is cheap and easy to replace these “dated” fixtures.

So off to Lowes I went and THIS is what I found….

When I say it was easy to replace, I am not kidding. The hardest part was climbing up and down the ladder. Just remove the existing bulb and trim piece. The trim piece is usually held in place by little springs or pinch clips.

Then just screw the new fixture into the socket (like a light bulb) then slip the little pinch clips into the existing brackets on the side of the can. Simple!!!!

The fixture has five different light settings on the back…from bright white to soft “yellowish.” I set all my living space lights on a soft setting and the three in my kitchen on a brighter white for task lighting. Perfect.

TIP! If one of these eventually goes out you can’t just replace a bulb. My suggestion is to get an extra 1-2 in case one goes out in the future and this style or brand is no longer available…that way you won’t have to replace multiples if one goes out!

Again, one of the simplest and most impactful DIY projects you can do. Don’t know why I haven’t done this in the last three years.

Oh, yeah, I know why. Rarely do I lay on the couch and look at my ceiling lights.

A rock water feature...

In my last house I had an amazing two tiered water pond with a fountain next to the back patio, outside my bedroom. I loved it. I could open the window at night or sit on the patio and drink coffee and hear the water.

If I believed in the whole Zodiac thing I’d say it is because I am an Aquarius…”water-bearer.” I don’t ….. I think I just like the soothing sound of water.

Truth is the sound of water is very tranquil…zen if you will. Calming. Destressing.

I can’t really have a open pond water feature here…too many leaves!

Then I ran across this tutorial on Instagram for a closed water fountain. THIS I can have!

So I set out to build it.

Keep in mind, this is MY tutorial for my specific fountain. There are TONS of tutorials and designs on Pinterest so do a little research and find a tutorial or design that works for YOU!

I decided to place it in the corner of my front flower bed (shared my flower beds HERE). The first thing I had to do was move a few plants around…no biggy!

The tutorial calls for using a large plastic tub as the reservoir. I bought a livestock feed bin at the local livestock supply store…a 40 gallon tub that has an inside diameter of 26 1/2”. (Much cheaper than a tub designed specifically for a water feature that you can buy at the big box hardware stores.) That measurement is important when you go to buy rock because your base rock needs to be a few inches less than that in diameter so the water flows back into the reservoir. If you want a bigger rock, I suggest getting a bigger tub.

So, dig a hole…a BIG hole…large enough for the tub to sit in flush with the surrounding grade. I dug mine a few inches deeper so I could cushion the bottom of the hole with a few inches of sand (plain ole’ play sand). I think that is important for leveling and stability. It also ensures that no rocks will compromise the bottom of the tub.

Set the tub into the hole and make sure it is level…I used a 3’ level. If you don’t have a 3’ level, set a board across the top of the tub then use a shorter level on top of the board.

Once the tub is level and flush with the ground, back fill around the tub with dirt…checking for level as you go.

Water the back fill well so that all the dirt settles around and under the reservoir.

After I was certain all the dirt around the tub was well settled, I dug out the dirt around the tub about 2-3” deep about 5-6” around the tub. I filled that in with small rock I bought at Lowe’s.

I did this so that if the reservoir “flooded” there was less chance of dirt and silt back flowing into the reservoir…kind of a “french drain” thing.

As you can see, I created a little “bed within the bed” by using THIS plastic border material …keeps it nice and neat and separated from the mulch. (TIP..buy extra stakes…this kit does not come with enough!)

The next step is the metal grate across the top. I was going to have my son wield me a grate out of rebar but I found this little gate at Lowe’s and decided it would work fine.

Being the “overkill” kinda person I am and knowing this was going to have to support some super heavy rocks, I did attach three pieces of 3/8” rebar to the underside of it just to add a little strength.

I painted the rebar with Rust-oleum protective paint just so it wouldn’t continue to rust and leach down into the reservoir.

Then I lashed them to the gate using zip ties, making sure they would rest on the edge of the reservoir.

I set a square rock in the bottom of the reservoir to set the pump on…that way it wouldn’t suck in any dirt or sludge that settled in the bottom of the reservoir between cleanings. I put the pump in after the grate but before the mesh. (THIS is the pump I used)

After you lay the grate down, but before waterfall rocks, lay chicken wire or some other smaller metal mesh down on top of the grate. This is because you are going to surround the waterfall rocks with smaller decorative rock and you don’t want them falling through the grate.

I used a stainless wire panel I found at Lowes,. (can’t find it online to link). It is a 2x8 panel next to the rebar.

Cut the wire mesh to fit over the metal grate, and cut a small hole in the front so that you can get your hand down into the reservoir. Remember the mesh has sharp edges so give yourself a little room so that you don’t slice up your hand! (yes I learned that lesson the hard way!)

Then just lay a scrap piece of mesh over the hole before you set the waterfall rocks.

If you need to get to the pump, or when you want to clean out the reservoir, you can easily move aside the decorative rock and remove this panel and access everything.

Now the fun part…picking out your “water fall” rock and decorative rocks.

So off to the rock store I went.

Funny story…my daughter called one day and asked what I was doing. Told her I was headed to the rock store. She laughed…what’s a rock store?

A place where they sell rocks!!!! Big, small, gravel, pavers…the whole nine yards.

I picked out three large rocks I thought stacked nicely and would fit within the 26 1/2” diameter of the reservoir and would flow water. I took a picture of them at the rock store so I would know exactly how they stacked…

I picked out the decorative rock that will go around the large waterfall stones, on top of the wire mesh. It took about 10-5 gallon buckets, but I only fill the buckets about 1/2 full so I can actually carry them!!! You can also buy bags of decorative rock…to each his own.

I also picked up 4-5 rock shims that were scattered about…little slivers of flagstone rock that are about 1/4'“ thick…later you will understand their importance.

These larger rocks are super heavy…so make sure you have some muscle to help you load them and set them in place!

Stack the rocks like you want them next to the reservoir. Pour water over the top of the rocks to make sure the water will flow properly. You can make minor adjustments with shims later. It’s important that the water that comes up through the rocks will flow back into the reservoir. I stacked mine so that all the water flowed to the front and sides…again, personal preference.

Time to drill the hole. WOW! What a chore. I used a 12” 1/2” masonry bit to drill down through the top rock drilling far enough to “mark” the second rock. Move the top rock to the side, then drill the second rock and go far enough to “mark” the bottom rock. I drilled the bottom rock after it was moved into place on the grate…that way you drill through the wire mesh where the hose needs to go.

After the holes are drilled, stack the rocks and line up the holes….it is easier to line up the holes by using the 12” drill bit as a guide. Then snake a 1/2” water line that is attached to the pump through the holes and out the top, cutting it about 1/2”above the rock.

Clean out all the rock dust and muck from the reservoir. Just hose it down well and suck out the dirty water with a shop vac….you may have to do that a couple of times. That way it is all nice and clean and ready for fresh water.

This next step is super important.

Fill the reservoir with fresh water, just enough to cover the pump about 2”-3” and turn it on. (Oh yeah, you do need a power supply close by!)

You want to make sure that ALL the water is flowing from the top rock into the reservoir…if it isn’t, make adjustments to your rocks by using the rock shims. You may have to shim the rocks from side to side or back to front to get the water to flow properly.

Watch it for a bit…make sure it does what you want it to do! (For the record, the pump can be adjusted to flow lighter or stronger…read the instructions…I did not)

I did this before I added the decorate rocks…just made it easier to see. I did notice that once I added the decorative rocks that some “splashing” happened…no too worried about it because the reservoir will have to be filled from time to time anyway, so….

One suggestion…only fill the reservoir about 4”-5"” from the top. If you fill it to the top, there will be no where for rain water to go and you are more likely to have “flooding.” Just my thoughts.

Bingo…a relatively simple water feature!

I added one of my Colorado decorative rocks and a piece of driftwood…

I loved this little things so much that Brian and I installed another one just off the screened porch so I could hear it when I am drinking my coffee in the mornings or having dinner on the porch…added a little Dwarf Japanese Maple….LOVE!!!!!

This is NOT a hard project. Yes, it takes some muscle…but it is relatively easy and probably cost me under $300.

Perfect for small areas or in areas where an open pond water feature isn’t feasible!!!

The Pantry Makeover....

It has only been a little over a year since I “froo-frooed” my kitchen pantry. I love it and have found all the little storage elements I added to be very helpful. I have managed to keep it fairly organized.

After living with this space for a few years, it is time to reconfigure it and install new flooring.

First things first….find my inspiration. Same song, second verse…cruise the blogisphere and Pinterest and see what trips my trigger.

Once I had an idea of what I WANT, it was time to take some measurements and draw everything out on graph paper…inspiration + space = ”the plan.” Drawing the space to scale gives me the ability to play around with the elements I think I want on paper before I start sawing and nailing. It also gives me important measurements for cabinets, flooring and shelf material.

I wanted base cabinets to hide rarely used appliances (food processor, grinder, etc), dutch ovens, crock pots, etc.

I wanted a cute counter top for the flour/sugar jars, toaster and can opener.

Lauren’s pantry was most similar to my layout so I looked closely at what she did….

Like Lauren, I knew I wanted to use 12” wall cabinets as the bases. However, I decided to build my shelves a tad differently.

I liked the look of the shelving featured HERE….

Unfortunately I couldn’t find any wall cabinets to use as base cabinets…at least none that are affordable. It’s a pantry. With the cost of materials THROUGH THE ROOF I have to be conscience of the cost of this little project.

I wasn’t real keen on open base cabinets but Lindsey built some really awesome bases…

She posted a great tutorial on building these base cabinets…pretty much exactly the way I built mine!

So all this got worked into “the plan.” Again, a fluid plan, but a plan none the less.

First up…the flooring. The flooring was the original tile and I decided to use the same tile I used in the laundry room. Tiling over the tile in the laundry room worked well so I decided to do that again.

I wanted to reset the shelving and build some additional “shelf towers” so I removed all the existing shelving….

I wanted a new light fixture so I found one I kind of liked. HOWEVER, it came with Edison bulbs. Kind of important since you can see the bulbs through the glass but I just don’t like the light…just too “yellow.”

One morning I woke up thinking “I really don’t like that light.” So I got up, took down the new one and put the old one back up. Again, it’s a pantry…functional is more important that pretty sometimes. Maybe I’ll eventually find something that is both pretty and functional…way down the bottom of the list at this point.

BTW, in case you want to see what “projecting” looks like around here….

I patched and painted the walls white (my new fav, BM Chantilly Lace), grouted the floor tile, then started building the base cabinets and adding the new shelves. I preprimed and sanded all the material so all I had to do after it was assembled was caulk and putty holes. A light sanding, wipe with tack cloth and it was ready for paint. Prepriming and sanding BEFORE you cut and install will save you a MAJOR dust storm in the house.

AGAIN, I am not going to go into a long drawn out tutorial…just so many great tutorials out there.

Some people go to the lake during Memorial Day weekend. I build shelves.

The countertop. I like wood since it is not an actual food prep space.

If I wanted to splurge I would have built walnut counters or even a butcher block. But again…it’s a pantry!

The question then is if I go with a less expensive wood do I stain it with a dark stain or just leave it natural.

SOURCE

I love the dark stain but I worry it is running it’s course. But you know what, I don’t care. I love the darker stain and since the walls and cabinets are white, dark it is! I decided to use the pine “project board” from Lowes, stain with a “brown mahogany” and then apply a couple of coats of polycrylic. (Remember, polyurethane has a tendency to yellow over time)

Floors done, walls painted, cabinets and shelves built and painted, top on. Now the hard part…letting it all sit and cure before I load everything back in. IT IS IMPORTANT PEOPLE!!!! Let your paint and finishes cure before you go all decor-crazy on it…otherwise you will scar and scuff and will have wasted all your time and money!

You may notice I actually gained a couple of shelves on the right and middle walls just by reconfiguring them. I also changed the upper shelves on the left to 10” and 8” deep shelves instead of the 12” that were there. I didn’t need the depth and it seemed to “open” up the space a tad.

I could have carried the top all the way around on the right and still had dog and cat food storage under it…but I needed a few shelves 14” tall so I decided to do a separate “shelf tower.” Perfect for taller items like the stacked storage containers, cereal boxes and wine bottles. All the other shelves have a 10” clearance which is ample tall enough for most of my stuff.

Right side….

Left side…

I love that we added an outlet in this pantry…perfect for the toaster and can opener so they don’t take up real estate in the kitchen.

I think my Kitchen Aide mixer would look cute in here but I like it on my kitchen counter. If it were in here I would have to haul it back and forth to the kitchen…it’s too heavy and I’m too old!

I was a bit bummed that I couldn’t originally find cabinets with doors but honestly I like this look better! While dutch ovens and crock pots aren’t really display worthy, the open shelves keep the room from feeling so small and claustrophobic. Believe it or not this space is only 5 x 5. Tiny but mighty!

I have no doubt that at some point I will add a backsplash…not sure whether it will be tile or wallpaper or something else…but something to give the space a little color and character. Right now I am worn out just getting to this point!

Last year I added glass to the pantry door. I LOVE it and I’m glad that is one chore I don’t have to do now!

The important thing I want to share is that reworking a space can make a huge difference. I now have a pretty pantry that works beautifully as an extension of my kitchen. Remember, I don’t have a lot of upper cabinet storage in my kitchen so this pantry is super important!

On a scale of 1-10? For me, not difficult because I have the tools and the know-how. For a novice DIYer, probably an 8. But there are a ton of tutorials out there for how to build simple shelving or how to use old cabinets to create a space like this. The first thing you have to do is find “inspiration” for the space you actually have and work from there. It is doable…YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!

On a blog board I am on someone said she was afraid to do something like this because she was afraid to mess up.

Don’t be afraid to “mess up.” That is how you learn…watch tutorials and read blogs. There are so many great resources at your fingertips these days.

Use them…and JUST DO IT!

The living room fireplace reveal....

FIREPLACE MAKEOVER!

I have known from day one that I wanted to give each of the fireplaces a little makeover.

HERE I shared the den fireplace….

Now it was time for the living room fireplace.

The original fireplace wasn’t totally offensive. It just wasn’t “my thing.” Whatever that is! A little dated…just blah.

My original plan was something like this…

SOURCE

I really loved this “cove molding” look but this surround is stone…and SUPER expensive. I decided to try to recreate the look with wood.

First thing I had to find was the “cove crown.”

I found it HERE. The only issue I had with it was the fact that it is a “polyurethane” material…basically styrofoam with a plasticish shell…hum. I did some research and it is SUPPOSE to withstand heat up to 200 degrees. That should hold up to the heat put off by my fireplace….should. I guess I’ll find out next year!

So as I mention HERE, I found my inspiration, took measurements and made a tentative plan.

What is the old saying about “best laid plans?”

No matter how carefully we plan, not all will go right.

Case in point.

So I started by removing the old surround….

TIP! When you remove wood trim from a wall, first score the joint between the wood and the wall with a utility knife. It should have caulk between the wood and the wall and if you don’t score it, you may tear the paint finish. If there is still caulk on the wall, just take a chisel or putty knife and gently scrape it off. Also use a board behind the pry bar so you don’t bust through the sheetrock…I did it just for demonstration purposes…NOT!

When I removed the old surround, I discovered this….

I forgot this room originally had carpet. When they added the hardwood, they had to work around the existing fireplace surround which sat on the slab, so of course when I removed it there was a gaping hole in the hardwood flooring.

“Best laid plan” #1….

Not a big deal for me. First, I always keep “spare.” The problem was remembering where I put the spare pieces of hardwood. Once I dug it out from behind all the stored Christmas decorations I went to work patching these floors. Since much of it was going to be covered by the new surround, I didn’t worry about “lacing” it in like you would a prominent area. I glued and laid some 3/4” material as a subfloor, then cut a few pieces of the oak and glued them to the subfloor with construction adhesive, using wedges between the wood and the wall to fit them tight until the glue set up. I sanded and applied one coat of polycrylic before installing it. After installing it, I used wood filler to fill the gaps, gave it a light sanding, then applied another coat of polycrylic.

Hardly noticeable…or as my daddy use to say, “You’ll never notice it on a passing train!”

I decided to build the surround on the wall vs. building it as a unit and then attaching it to the wall. Just personal preference honestly.

I used a stud finder to find all the studs and marked them on the wall.

I put up 2 x 4 “bracing/supports” on the wall using THIS construction adhesive and deck screws. I was able to hit a few studs, but not as many as I would have liked…hence, the adhesive. I like this construction adhesive better than most because I have found it is tackier and less likely to “slide” before it dries.

Since these were the “supports” that all else would be attached to, I made sure they were perfectly straight and level.

I strongly suggest priming and sanding all your materials before installing it…this will save you from a serious dust storm IN the house! First course of business.

I began building the surround by attaching 1x material to the supports I had secured to the wall, using adhesive and nails. I used 1 x 8” poplar material on the outside and faced the edge with 1 x 2 poplar. I attached a 1 x 4 pine on the inside of the supports. Then I added spacers between the two to provide additional support and nailer for the trim.

(At this point the cove crown is just “propped up”…not attached.)

My “best laid plan” was to use crown between the outside board and the inside board….

Okay, here is the problem and where my “plan” completely fell apart.

I was THINKING I would just take plan ole’ crown and “cope” the inside corners. Works on a ceiling, right?

Right…but on the inside corners of a wall/ceiling, you have two pieces of crown joining in the corner, both laying “horizontal.” On the inside corner of this fireplace, you have one piece laying horizontal and one piece laying vertical.

Now, you might not think that is a big issue.

Well it evidently is. I googled, I cut, I made mock ups…I spent an entire day trying to make this work. Evidently this is not a “doable” thing…at least not what I could find.

This might explain why ALL my inspiration pictures were stone or masonry.

I think the reason it worked a bit with the cove crown ( I say a bit, because there were still gaps I had to sculpt with putty and caulk) was because it didn’t have the “fancy” profile of a crown. Smaller cove molding will cut on a 45 on inside corners without coping. The larger cove molding had minimal “gaping.”

If you know anything about cutting trim and coping you know exactly what I am talking about. If you do not, do a TON of research before attempting to trim inside corners…or you too will learn the hard way!

Soooooo….best laid plans.

I rarely just give up, but…..

Time to punt.

I found another “inspiration” that appeared to be “less decorative.” I decided to give this look a shot since it would entail using basic 1x material vs. crown.

Truth is, this is one of those “happy accidents.”

I like the look more than I did the original plan!!!!

I used a 1 x 4 material, then stacked on a 1 x 3 material, then a small cove molding…LOVE.

Moving forward….it was time to attach the large cove crown.

First issue. In all my inspiration photos, I really like the “one piece” look. Since again, they were all stone, the material adjacent to the fire box was the same as the surround. If I recreated that look I would have to use painted wood adjacent to the fire box, and I just didn’t feel comfortable with that. Not that this box gets terribly hot, but it does get a tad warm.

Soooo….what to do. I really wasn’t loving the look of high contrast tile between the box and the surround.

When I was looking at tile, I found a split face travertine tile I really liked.

If you remember the Lankford house den fireplace I installed split face travertine…and I LOVED it. I still do…so I went with it.

Now, travertine is not “all the rage.” So this is a prime example of doing something I LOVE vs. doing the in thing.

Since I decided to go with tile, I used a 1x material for the inside of the cove crown to sit on…just to give it some lift so that the tile wasn’t butting up against it’s 1/4” edge. I glued and nailed 1 x 4s on the wall, then installed the cove crown on top of that.

Second issue…since the cove crown is “polyurethane” and not wood, I couldn’t attach it using a trim nailer. Trust me, I tried. I had to use construction adhesive, then tape it and constantly “press” it until the mastic finally set up. Pain.

Once all that was done, I caulked all the joints, puttied holes, gave it a little sand and then painted it BEFORE I installed the tile surround.

I used a latex paint because my research said that latex is a better product to use in areas where “heat” might be a factor…I guess it has a tad more flexibility. Makes sense.

Don’t forget the Floetrol…makes a world of difference in your paint finish.

After the paint had cured, I installed the tile. Again, there are amazing tutorials out there for installing tile…find one that makes sense to you! Installing tile around a fire box is NOT a difficult DIY project. But you want to make sure you have the right tools (wet saw, properly sized trowel, etc) and that you use a thin set or mastic that works with the type of tile you are using and is heat resistant. RESEARCH!!!!!!

There were a couple of scuffs and marks on the black fire box from scraping the old mastic off. I used a black Sharpie to cover those…works like a charm.

And presto, bingo….a new fireplace surround.

I like it much better than the old one. Bigger but simpler. Not quite so “traditional” looking. Again, I like it much better with the “stacked edge” than I would have with the crown. See, no mistakes, just learning as I go. A lifetime of doing this stuff and I am still learning!

I am EXHAUSTED (just look back at all the projects in the last few months) so I doubt I will be starting any new major projects anytime soon. Course I say that and I am already eyeballing and sketching a few things I have been thinking about starting. Hum….

So until next time…

The "new" Drexel server....

I shared my plan for this wonderful vintage piece HERE….

I know purists cringe when people even talk about painting vintage pieces.

This is a prime example of “doing what you love.” If a piece will be more loved and treasured in a different state then go for it.

I painted the first one I found years ago and have had it in my dining/breakfast room…

…I recently swapped it out for the china hutch (featured HERE) and sold it.

Now this piece, a Drexel Accolade, has some value as is….if you do a little research you will find they sell for hundreds. But for me “hundreds” is not a value that will keep me from giving a piece a little makeover. If we were talking tens of thousands, yeah, no.

I also have a Drexel nightstand I refinished and shared HERE.

I planned to sell this piece after it’s makeover but I have moved it into my dining room and now I am kind of liking it…hum…guess we will see.

So…what did I do to give this thing a little more appeal?

First, I removed all the old hardware and brightened it up.

The hardware on these pieces are solid brass but after a few decades of neglect it is hard to tell. You can tell if something is solid brass with a magnet. A magnet WILL NOT stick to solid brass.

If the hardware is solid brass, the only way I have found to really brighten it up and get the decades of grime off is with Brasso and SOS pads.

Coat each piece with Brasso. I use a little chip brush to coat the pieces. After that sits for awhile, take an SOS pad and scrub away. You may need to repeat this process a time or two. I also use an old toothbrush to get in all the nooks and crannies.

After all the pieces are really clean, I scrub them with “Never Dull.” It seems to get the last layer of grunge off and gives them a little bit more “brightness.”

Not the easiest or fastest way to clean brass hardware but I just don’t think you can beat beautiful brass hardware.

Now, if the hardware is NOT brass and you want to spruce it up (without the cost of replacing) you can always give it a good scrubbing, prime it with metal primer and then paint it with spray paint. (TIP: put the screws back into the screw holes so that you don’t get paint in the threads.)

I shared another brass hardware restoration project HERE.

So, the hardware is done. If you find a Drexel piece and it is missing any of it’s original hardware, you can find replacements on Ebay…but be prepared to pay dearly for it! Each pull can range from $30 to $110 EACH!!!

I decided to strip and oil the drawer and door fronts. On the last Drexel makeovers (the bedside table and server) I painted the entire piece. This time I decided to shake things up a bit.

While I like wood grain, I am not a huge fan of oak. No biggy since, again, my original plan was to sell this piece. To highlight the pretty wood grain, I stripped the drawer fronts and doors using my trusty 1/2 and 1/2 mixture. 1/2 acetone, 1/2 lacquer thinner. HERE I posted a pretty lengthy tutorial on how to use this mixture to strip even the most stubborn finishes!

After stripping off the old finish I gave the drawers and doors a little mineral spirit wash, lightly sanded, wiped with tack cloth, then applied 3 coats of tung oil finish…my current favorite being Waterlox.

After that had dried and cured well, I taped and papered the doors and began prepping the cabinet for paint. (I removed the drawers to strip and oil them!)

I didn’t need to paint the inside of the cabinet so I taped that off, along with the black laminate under the flip top. I primed with Bullseye primer, then sanded smooth with 220 grit paper and wiped it all down with tack cloth.

I decided to paint the cabinet with high gloss black lacquer spray paint. I am obsessed with the high glass finish on these pieces. I just think it really makes a huge impact, especially with the bright brass hardware.

(You may notice I am all decked out for Easter…that is my new thing…decorating for each holiday/season. Next up will be Memorial Day/4th…patriotic stuff…then “summery”…then fall…then Christmas…then Valentine’s and back to Easter. See what happens when you “retire.”)

The trick to a flawless spray paint finish is LIGHT COATS…lightly spray, let it dry, spray again. It may take 3-4-5 coats but it dries quickly and in the end you will have a beautiful finish. If you go heavy handed you will have drips and runs and will be hugely disappointed!!!

Also pay attention to the temperatures and humidity. If it is too hot or too cold, or if the humidity is really high, you may have issues!

HERE you will find some additional tips on how to property paint furniture…very helpful!

After the paint had properly cured (gave it a good day or two) I replaced the hardware and OH. MY. GOSH!!! I seriously love this piece. Even though I am not a huge oak fan I am really loving it!!!

So the past few weeks I have been tackling a MAMMOTH project. Maybe next week I can share it. Hint, in entails A LOT of the thing I hate most….but man will it be worth it…I think…I hope….

Sheetrock repair.

I posted a very helpful tutorial on repairing sheetrock HERE almost 9 years ago.

I decided to post another tutorial because I have two small sheetrock repairs…the result of removing security system control panels. (And a son who pointed out that I spent a fortune remodeling this house and left the worthless control panels)

Yes, I am removing a security system. It is the original hardwired system that was probably installed when the house was built 22 years ago and we have never even attempted to use it.

Why? Well, first we have a HUGE dog, an Anatolian Shepherd, that is quick to alert us to all boggy persons, delivery people, squirrels, unfamiliar cars, etc…day or night. And God help you if you tried to enter this house. She is the sweetest dog in the world…if she knows you or I am here to tell her all is okay. But I have no doubt she would make a meal out of you if she didn’t know you or she thought I was afraid.

No worries…we have a precious lab puppy who would be quick to clean up any mess Cleo makes…or give you puppy kisses if you are distressed. Typical lab. Not the best guard dog.

Second, everything is wireless these days. Our current security system is wireless. So an old hardwired security system is kind of useless.

I have found very little evidence of a hardcore security system. Basically there were two control panels, one in the bedroom, one in the laundry room…

…and two motion sensors in the ceiling. I removed those and covered the small holes with new smoke detectors…you can never have too many of those! (I also just noticed the doo-dads on a few doors…will have to deal with those eventually.)

When I removed the control panels in the bedroom and laundry room I found 2” x 2” holes in the sheetrock.

Curses.

So, here is another tutorial for repairing sheetrock without having to install backer boards or tape. I have used this method to repair 2” x 2” holes, door knob holes and even large sections when I removed walls (HERE)

Here are the supplies you will need to repair sheetrock….

*Scrap piece of sheetrock (you can buy this at Lowes or “repurpose” scraps from a new construction job site)

*Sheetrock mud

*Spray texture (my walls are orange peel texture…buy the texture appropriate for your wall texture)

*Broad knife

*Utility knife with a sharp blade

*Measuring tape

*Pencil

First, use a utility knife and make the hole square/rectangular. My holes were 2 x 2 inch squares so no worries.

After you have cut a decent "square" around any damage, measure the width and the height.

Then mark the scrap sheetrock, adding about 3" to that measurement! My sheetrock piece was 5” x 5”…that will leave about 1 1/2” on each side for “tape.”

Sheetrock has a paper backing on each side so it is very easy to cut...basically all you have to do is "score" the back side (usually the side that is brown) with your utility knife then just "snap" it. Then take your knife and cut through the paper on the other side.

After cutting a piece 3" larger than your opening, you will want to mark the actually opening size on the back side of the sheetrock, leaving 1 1/2" on all four sides. (This is where a little "square" tool or ruler will come in handy!) I always make my mark and cut about 1/4" smaller than my actual measurements just to give myself some wiggle room!

After scoring, "snap" one side at a time and carefully peel the "core" (the chalky inside) of the sheetrock and backing off the paper on the front side. You will do this on all four sides.

(Yes, I know I need a manicure.)

After you are all done, it should look like this.....

I also take my utility knife and make a "miter" cut at each corner...just a little slit from the corner of the board to the corner of the paper.  

Basically, what you have done here is create a patch with built in sheetrock tape...so there is no need to tape the gap around the patch and no need to try to put backing behind the board where you are patching...it is "ALL IN ONE!"  Nifty, huh? 

Before putting joint compound in and around the hole, "dry fit" your cut piece and make sure it will fit in the hole. If it seems to stick, you can shave a little off the edges with a utility knife. If you cut the piece about 1/4" smaller than the hole, it should fit right in.

After you make sure your cut piece will fit properly, mud the edges of the hole and the wall about 2" around the hole.

Set your cut piece into the hole and use your broad knife to smooth out the paper and push the excess mud out from underneath the paper edging with your broad knife so the paper lies flat. Then put more mud on your broad knife and lightly coat the entire piece.  "Feather" the edges where the new mud meets the wall. Coat the new mud a few inches onto the wall.  The less mud you leave on the patch and the wall, the less you have to sand! It is okay if you can still see the paper and board through the first coat...no biggy!

HINT:  Some mud can be pretty thick.  You can mix it with a little water and thin it down a bit...makes it easier to work with...but don't make it too runny! 

I usually let this first application dry overnight.  Remember, there is a bunch of mud along the edges that is basically "glueing" the patch in place.  You want to let that dry well before you start sanding. 

After this first coat of mud dries, sand it as smooth as possible.  Don't panic if you sand into the paper coating the sheetrock...it happens!   It really doesn’t matter what the sandpaper grit is at this point.

I always wrap my paper around a sponge sanding block...it helps you sand flat. Sand it as smooth as possible and make sure you "feather" the edges so that you don't have any heavy mud lines showing. Don't panic if you feel like you have sanded "too much"...you really can't.

FEEL the area with your bare hands...if you can feel the lumps and bumps and lines, you are going to be able to see them...so sand away!! (I can not stress this enough...SAND IT SMOOTH...CLOSE YOUR EYES AND FEEL!!!!)

After sanding it REAL smooth, put another coat of mud over the area.  Again, the smoother you coat it, the less sanding you have to do!   Be sure to feather the edges by mudding 2-3" around the repair area.  This is where a wider broad knife really comes in hand!

After this second coat dries, sand again....sand it as smooth as you can.  Again...if you can FEEL lumps, bumps and lines, you are going to be able to see them...so sand it smooth and make sure you feather the edges. This really is the "trick" to getting a good repair!

I can usually get by with two coats of mud...and that should be plenty.  If you feel you have had to sand down too much and need to add a light third coat, go for it.   Just make sure you let it dry well and sand BEFORE moving on to the next step.

After the patch and the surrounding area is really smooth, it is time to put on the spray texture.  

If needed, I usually wait to tape off the surrounding area until AFTER I sand the patch.  Joint compound will clean off easily with a wet towel but the spray texture is pretty tough stuff. So lay down a drop cloth (or newspaper) under the patch and tape off any trim BEFORE applying the spray texture.  

Most wall textures these days are what we call "orange peel."  But you might also have "knock down."  If the texture on your walls is just kind of bumpy, you probably have "orange peel."  If you have heavy blotches, you have knock down.  

You can buy cans of texture at Lowe's and they come in both orange peel and knock down. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN CAREFULLY! And make sure you shake the can well!

(If you have never used spray texture before, I would suggest experimenting on a scrap piece of board or drywall…play with it a bit until you feel confident your application matches your wall texture. )

 If you have orange peel you will just spray it on the patch and surrounding area (using a circular motion to eliminate "lines" and spray "outside" the patch area)  If you have "knock down" texture, you will have to spray it on the patch and surrounding area, let it sit per the cans instructions and then take your broad knife and "knock down" the new texture after it has dried a bit.   Follow the directions on the can for proper application and dry times for both!   

Lighter is better....this stuff dries rather quickly, so if you think the texture is too light, go back over it AFTER the first coat has dried.  It is always easier to add a little texture than to deal with texture that is too heavy....so go light and reapply if necessary.

If you feel like you have totally botched it, just take a damp paper towel and wipe it off the wall while it is still wet. Then either practice a bit more on your scrap or try again.

If the spray texture appears a little "bumpier" than the wall texture, you can always take a piece of sand paper and LIGHTLY run it over the new texture AFTER IT HAS DRIED and before you paint.

ONCE YOU PAINT IT WILL BE REAL TOUGH TO MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS TO THE TEXTURE SO DO IT BEFORE YOU PAINT!!! Not impossible but more difficult.

DO NOT PAINT UNTIL THE SPRAY TEXTURE HAS DRIED COMPLETELY!!!!!

Now this is where that can of leftover paint you stored away will come in handy! Seriously, I can not stress enough how important it is to keep "spare" paint....store it somewhere in the house, clearly marked! You may have to match the paint color the best you can and then paint the entire wall. And this is not an issue at all if you are repairing walls before you repaint.

You will probably need 2-3 coats of paint to cover the patch since you are painting over "raw" sheetrock and texture.  I used a little 4" sponge roller and brush.

If you sand well and applied the texture properly, you shouldn't even be able to tell where the patch is!   

This does take a little practice.  After owning apartments and raising teens, I've had a LOT of practice.  But if you take your time, use the proper tools and really pay attention to details you should be able to do this little DIY project yourself!

I hope this gives you the confidence to finally tackle that sheetrock repair that has been bugging the heck out of you.

Accent wall tutorial...

I shared HERE how I found inspiration for the accent wall in my office.

I shared HERE the office after everything was done. (Well, everything for NOW!)

At first glance, the accent wall may seem somewhat intimidating.

SOURCE

This is actually a wallpaper. I like the dark wall with lighter accent stripes. I think it gives the wall “depth” and makes a room look larger.

You could easily replicate this entire look with paint…just paint the wall then paint the stripes.

I kind of did the opposite…light walls, dark stripes. I knew from day one I wanted a pink accent wall and decided to make the stripes out of walnut. My office is a big room with tall ceilings…it can take an accent wall that makes the room APPEAR smaller.

Now if you have followed this blog for any amount of time you know I have a deep love for walnut.

I made my fireplace mantel out of walnut.

My kitchen cabinets are walnut….

I made my living room shelving out of walnut…

And most of my furniture is walnut. If it is any other wood there is a good chance I will paint it if need be…but not walnut!

So, pink wall, walnut stripes.

The first thing I did in this room, after a good purge and reorganization, was paint the walls.

The accent wall was painted pink and the three other walls and trim where painted white (BM Chantilly Lace…closest I can find to a TRUE white without an undertone.)

They were ready to go….

So here is a little tutorial for doing any accent wall.

Print off a picture of your inspiration wall…as large as you can get it on a full size piece of paper. I printed off the picture above.

Measure your wall then draw the wall to scale on a piece of graph paper. For me, this is a must any time I am doing a room makeover. I need to know the scale of the space I am working with and how each element fits in that space…on paper.

Since I wanted the accent stripes to be centered between the ceiling and the top of the baseboards, I measured and graphed from the top of the baseboard to the ceiling. I did NOT measure from floor to ceiling.

Identify and mark your center point on the wall…from there you will work out from center to left and from center to right.

I had to figure out the “scale” of the stripes. I did this by making the assumption that the longest stripe in the inspiration picture (#1) was 4” from the ceiling…just a guess. When I measured that with a ruler on the printed picture, it measured 1/8”…that became my scale…1/8” = 4”. The distance between the stripes measured 1/4” on the picture, so I determined the distance between stripes would be 8” (I actually did 8” on center (OC)…which means I drew my stripes 8” apart then centered the 1” strips of wood on that mark.)

All this information gets transferred to my scaled drawing.

I counted the number of each of the different sized stripes. The inspiration wall had 4 different sized stripes…so I assigned each size a number, 1-4. There were 5 #1s (the longest)….4 #2s…5 #3s…3 #4s (the shortest) that would fit on my wall, spacing 8” OC apart.

By using my 1/8” = 4” scale, I determined that each stripe was 24” shorter than the next (12” from the top, 12” from the bottom).

So #1 is 107” (top of baseboard to ceiling is 115” - 8” (4” from ceiling and 4” from baseboard)…#2 is 83” (107” - 24”)…#3 is 59” (83” - 24”) and #4 is 35”. (59” - 24”)

If #1 is 4” from the ceiling, then #2 would be 16” (4” + 12”) from the ceiling, #3 would be 28” from the ceiling and #4 was 40” from the ceiling.

All this was drawn, to scale, on the graph paper.

Man, this sounds confusing….but it really is not. If you draw it all out on a graph paper to scale, it makes perfect sense…I promise.

Then it was all transferred, in pencil, to the wall.

It is so much easier to erase something that is wrong than it is to tear glued and nailed boards off a wall.

So, now I have the entire plan drawn out on paper, to scale, and I have the measurements of each stripe.

I decided to make my walnut stripes 1” wide. I also decided to give them a “3-D” affect by placing them on 1/2” furring strips. Walnut is a pretty expensive wood so I made the furring strips out of plain ole’ poplar and stained the sides to match the oiled walnut.

Matt and I used his table saw to cut the walnut in 1” strips. We cut the poplar into 1/2” strips.

Using the graph paper with the accent drawn to scale as my guide, I used a pencil and level to mark the wall where each stripe would go. After marking the wall, I attached the furring strips using Gorilla Construction Adhesive and my nail gun. I let that dry overnight since the nails did not hit a stud (impossible!!) so the construction adhesive is what really holds the furring strips to the wall.

While that was drying, I prepped the walnut strips.

After cutting each piece the length needed, I sanded, then applied Waterlox. I LOVE this oil. It is a clear oil. It is my “go-to” wood finish these days. I first used it on my kitchen cabinets a year and a half ago and it has held up beautifully!!!! So I used it on the mantel and shelving. No stain…just 3-4 coats of this stuff will make any wood shine!!!

I applied two coats…steel wool and tack cloth between coats…and then applied a third coat after I had installed the strips on the wall and puttied the nail holes.

I applied the walnut strips directly onto the furring strips. Again, I used the construction adhesive and nails.

MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS LEVEL AS YOU GO!!!! I made sure each furring strip was perfectly level and then I made sure each walnut strip was level. I worked top to bottom…wood, especially narrow strips, will bend…so make sure each strip stays level all the way down.

After I puttied the nail holes with wood filler mixed with stain to match the oiled walnut, I wiped on one more coat of oil.

After all this is done, go back and do wall paint touch up. You will scuff up the walls with the wood strips and the level.

Beautiful!

Now, this may seem like a really tough project. It really is not. It is like any other DIY project…it all hinges on the “prep.” In this case, laying it all out on paper BEFORE you start buying materials and cutting wood.

Changes I would make? I wanted a “3D affect”…in other words I wanted the walnut strips to “stand out”…which is why I added the solid furring strips. I think if I did this again (which I won’t) I would want to use spacers to make the walnut strips stand out. The only downside to that would be that wood has a tendency to “move”…twist, bend, warp. By attaching the walnut strips to solid furring strips, the walnut will not bend or warp! So maybe the way I did it is best…who knows…I just think I would have liked the look of “floating stripes” better.

Other than that, I am pretty happy with the results.

I have some leftover walnut so I THINK, when it warms up a bit (we got 8'“ of snow last night and it is still snowing), I may make some floating shelves for this wall…

Again, I eventually want to make a few other changes to the room (rug, chair, credenza) but I love this accent wall.

As with all DIY projects, the key to success is the prep and planning.

This week I planned, prepped and prepared for board and batten in the breakfast room….

My plan is to install board and batten at chair rail height and paint it white.

I also finished this nasty china hutch…

I know this looks pretty ratty but I painted it and did a little tweeking on it and it turned out super cute. My plan was to sell it, but I think I will move it into this room and style it first…I may even like it well enough to keep it. We’ll see.

Hopefully next week I will have the breakfast room done and in order and I can share that as well.

Until then….

Cute Christmas door hangers...

Last week I was looking back at some old posts and realized I had never shared THESE cute door hangers I promised to share A YEAR AGO…

Most of my doors have the little candle wreaths but I thought these would be fun and different on the two spare room doors. (This one is my gift wrapping room!) Mix things up a bit!

Super simple to make…

I bought two little wood signs at Hobby Lobby…

I made some little “sprays” using materials leftover from some holidays sprays I made for my lanterns. I just bunched them together and secured them with a pipe cleaner and floral tape.

I drilled a hole in the top of the little wooden sign….

…then I just stuck the “spray” into the hole and secured it with hot glue.

Then I made a “funky bow” using the tutorial linked in THIS post and attached it to the spray.

Presto, bingo, cute little door signs!

A simple way to dress up the cute little signs and a great way to do something other than the expected “holiday wreath.”

This week we enjoyed a quiet Thanksgiving and a busy few days of decorating for Christmas. Not much has changed from last year so you can check out THIS post to get an idea of what is where. I did add a few trees…one in the all-season room and one in the den but nothing earth shattering. The all-season room got a “Stewart plaid” treatment…seems to be all the rage for the “in” plaid this year…but I am a true “Stewart” so it has more meaning. I want to add some lanterns and a few other little things so I may share that room in a few weeks.

Next week I will share my new “projectS.” Stay tuned!!! Exciting stuff!

Fireplace reveal...,

It is done.

As I mention HERE, I had several goals for this room.

The first was easy…replace the paddle fan. Check.

The second was a tad more difficult. Reface the fireplace.

Difficult only because I couldn’t “see” what I wanted which resulted in a spur of the moment “demolition” of what was there….

As I have said time and again, often what “is there” keeps us from seeing “what can be.” I see stuff on Pinterest and in magazines all the time that I love, but I can’t visualize it in my own space because what is there clutters my vision. I have equated it to trying to paint a landscape on a canvas that already has a portrait painted on it.

That is when I advocate painting the canvas white. Base neutral. Painting the piece of furniture or wall white or taking all the furniture and fixtures out of a room so you can visualize what you want rather than what is there. Even if it is a piece of furniture you plan on keeping, take it out…that way you can “see” it in a different spot or even painted a different color.

Once I did that with this fire place, I could visualize “the plan.” Rock the bottom…big beefy walnut mantel.

I shared the stone HERE.

Last week Matt and I dragged out the table saw and chop saw and went to work on the mantel. Four coats of Waterlox (I LOVE this stuff) and presto-bingo….the vision came to life. Waterlox is my new “go to” finish…a tung oil finish that gives any wood durable protection while allowing the beauty of the wood grain to shine. And it is SERIOUSLY idiot proof! Just sand, clean the entire piece with a tack cloth and wipe it on. Use 0000 steel wool and tack cloth between each coat. I usually apply 3-5 coats. LOVE!!!

I intentionally choose walnut with tons of grain and a few knots…”character.” This house doesn’t lend itself to the “farmhouse look” but I didn’t want formal and fussy either.

The final result was exactly what I envisioned…and I LOVE IT!

Here is the BEFORE (obviously last Christmas)…

And AFTER….

Sometimes we get so wrapped up in getting a project finished as quickly as possible, we fail to live with the results in our minds for a time. Trust me, you will love any DIY project sooooo much more if you will get rid of what is there and take time to live with what you think you want in your mind before you start slathering paint or ripping out walls.

Remember every space is different….just because something looks amazing on Pinterest or in a magazine doesn’t necessarily mean it will work for you. It might, but spend the time to tweek it in your mind before you jump head long into what can be a time consuming and expensive “oops.”