When the mouse is away...

This has been a week of MAJOR work so I will have lots of goodies to share. I had tons of projects piled up in my garage. I even skipped a potentially awesome auction this weekend because I knew I did not need to haul anything else home until I cleared out some projects. Even though I know I put a huge dent in it, there is still so much to do.

Saturday and Sunday I painted outside. Brian (affectionately, the mouse) went out of town Monday so I rolled out my handy-dandy "sewing cart" and went to work on a few sewing projects! Seriously, I LOVE this sewing cart!!!!

I know it looks fairly organized in the picture, but truth is I had stuff strung all over the dining and living rooms for three days...compressor, staple gun and staples, fabric, piping, pillow stuffing, etc. When I project, I go all out. That is one reason I waited until Brian was gone for a few days...because the house was a disaster (I NEED A SHOP!) and I stayed pretty focused.

Painting and reupholstering. For me, they are time consuming projects because I firmly believe in doing it right, even if I do plan to sell the piece! Whether I am keeping it or selling it, I treat it the same. Maybe that is why it is so hard for me to step out of my comfort zone and go bold on some upholstery projects.

When I rehabbed this side chair and rocking chair a few weeks ago, I picked a very nice and neutral pallet and meticulously painted and reupholstered them. Only to have the person who bought them ask how much I would charge to REupholster them...go figure!

Completed this week..six throw pillows, four upholstered chairs, three wood folding chairs, two antique oak school desks, one small table...if I had a partridge in a pear tree I would have painted and stuffed it!

The BIG chore is always the upholstered chairs. My first mental block is the fabric choice. I want something that will appeal to a lot of people, but is unique and interesting as well!

I dropped a little tease about this chair here!

Again, note the grass...dormant...that tells you how long this chair has been stuck in limbo!

When I pulled the back upholstery off this old chair, I found layers of old fabric...including a really cool piece of hand stitched quilt someone had used as padding at one point. I am always amazed at the history these old chairs reveal!

Several of you were fired up about the prospect of PURPLE! Truth is, I'm a tad too boring and conservative to actually paint the entire chair purple. I bought purple paint, but in the end, I just couldn't bring myself to do it.

But purple is the "color of the year" (or so the ads at Lowe's say!) so I wanted to use a bit on this chair!

I chalk painted and distressed the frame an "off-white" and then covered the back and seat (yes, I had to make a seat!) with this awesome fabric!

Since the fabric had purple in it, I went with purple trim! Aren't I just a wild and crazy gal!

So many other projects completed and I will share a few "before and afters" over the next few weeks. I made a large note and stuck it on the table to remind myself to take pictures before I hauled anything away!

Unfortunately, I don't have the space right now in my booths...so now the question becomes, WHAT DO I DO WITH ALL THESE STINKING CHAIRS!?

I guess I could throw a party...Lord knows there would be enough seating for everyone!!!

AWESOME RECIPE PERFECT FOR GARDEN VEGGIES!!!

I haven't shared a recipe in a while but I tried this totally awesome CRISP CUCUMBER SALSA and it is TOO. DIE. FOR! And it is low cal for those who care!

&nbs… — Photo and recipe curtesy of ***tasteofhome.com***

Usually I try a recipe verbatim and then mix it up a bit to my own tastes. This recipe has cumin and honestly, I'm not a fan...so I was certain I would change it after the initial try.

Nope. Not changing a thing (except I added a little more tomato.) It is wonderful and perfect for chips or on a salad.

Give it a try...this is a perfect time of the year for fresh cucumbers and tomatoes and there isn't a better way to prepare them! (Okay, sliced with salt is pretty awesome!)

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Bedroom makeover...part 2? 3?

I don't know how many times I have griped about my master bedroom. So this past month I began chewing away at a few little things I dislike.

It is my favorite room in the house AND my least favorite. My favorite because it is an awesome room...big, bright, cozy. Least favorite because after 13 years, I STILL haven't decorated it the way I REALLY want it.

I blame it on the furniture.

Ornate, heavy, dark, veeeery traditional! I paid entirely too much for it, so I can't bring myself to get rid of it. One bad thing about furniture...no matter how much you paid for it, chances are you are only going to get pennies on the dollar.

There are a few pieces I would never get rid of...my dad's walnut chair and my grandparent's old trunk. The rest of it...honestly, if I had unlimited funds, it would all go.

But I don't...so it won't. The next best thing is to change it up a bit with a little bit of paint!

I featured the beside tables and the high boy here!

The next big project was the bed!

Honestly, this set would be perfect for a chalkpaint and distress treatment. I painted it with Kilz and sanded it and it was so cool looking. But alas, that is not my "thang" so I just went with my go-to Valspar Dune color.

I did finally paint the top of the Duncan Phyfe drum table...bye, bye beautiful mahogany!

I still need to do some kind of little vingette around this table...in time!

I'm not real thrilled with the bed. I had originally planned on painting all the raised part of the head board and just leaving the inset stained but Brian talked me into just painting the top scrolly part...which is really the part I disliked and it seems the paint just highlighted it. (See, I take his advise!) Oh well...it is different and that will do for now!

I also picked up this darling little antique fan at an auction. I'm not really into "froo-froo" stuff just sitting around and eventually it will probably go to one of my flea booths. But I like the color and retro style and it looks kinda cool on top of the highboy...for now! Until I have to dust it!

Now that all the furniture is painted, I REALLY want to install hand-scraped laminate flooring. And I really want to reupholstery the big chairs. Someday!

I found this AWESOME color chart on Pinterest....

I have some white and tan in the throw pillows and bedding but the majority of my white is a little more "off-white" and my walls are more of a "cream" than a tan. I can live without the grey...I like black better. But the blue is the color of my fireplace wall and I am itching to throw the cranberry color in there somewhere. Maybe in the upholstery on the chairs or a large rug on my new floors!

The paddle fans? Hum...might have to do a little a little paddle fan treatment!

So much I WANT to do.

That is one thing one has to understand about home decor. Unless you have A LOT of money and can afford to have a professional designer come in and do it top to bottom (my choice would be Candice Olson!) the best approach is a little bit at a time.

Don't be afraid to buy used and do a little work to make it your own. As much as I disliked this furniture when it was all stained and matchy-matchy, I'm kind of digging it now! Still want something different, but I like it a lot more now than I did two weeks ago! The floors will come in time and I know someday a piece of upholstery fabric for the chairs will "speak to me" ...someday.

I always tell my kids...it's a good thing we don't have a lot of money...think of all the great things we would never have learned to do had we had the money to pay someone else to do it!

Seriously how much personal satisfaction could one get from having a bazillion dollars and being able to design, built and decorate your "dream" house without concern for costs?

See what paint fumes do to you....

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Mid century chair SCORE!! And a Duncan Phyfe chair repair!

SCORE! Seriously, major score!

Okay, so they don't look so hot right now and they didn't look any better piled on a trailer at the auction, covered in gunk and spider ick!

Which is a good thing because nobody knew what they were...which means SCORE for ME! Baumritter mid-century dining chairs! Oh my!

I know they look rough right now, but let me work my magic on them!

Truth is, mid-century furniture hasn't really hit the big time here like it has in other parts of the country and honestly, we don't see a lot of it around here. But occasionally I can find pieces here and there.

I love them...everything about them. The grain and color of the wood after it is refinished (usually walnut or teak), the clean lines, the incredible construction! I love the entire process of restoring these pieces because I know they will take my breath away when I am finished. I also know it is next to impossible to find solid walnut and teak furniture these days.

So...what is my hard-fast rule? If I bring one in, I have to take one out. So sacrifices have to be made and the sacrifice is going to be the rest of my antique Duncan Phyfe chairs! I have already sold 2 and have four left...two painted side chairs and two caption's chairs.

Last year I featured the chair I had to repair. I was so proud of myself. I glued and sculpted the chair back that was broken and then painted the two side chairs, which kind of goes against my grain but they turned out beautiful. I didn't paint the caption's chairs....

The repair lasted all of about 6 months...and then the back busted again. CRAAAAAP!

So this time I decided to "rebuild" rather than repair.

This would have been SOOOO much easier had I just gone and bought a scroll saw. But oh no...I figured I could do this with my jig saw and Dremel. And I did...but next time I am going to buy a scroll saw!

First thing I had to do was deconstruct the chair to get to the "broken back." Fortunately, these chairs are constructed with dowel rods and the top pops right off...okay, you have to beat on it a bit and chip the paint...but it eventually comes off.

Then I had to find a little piece of wood the same thickness as the back...3/8". I figured that wouldn't be a big deal. It was. I ended up finding some 3/8" pine, but it wasn't wide enough...so I had to do the ole' clamp and glue thing to create a piece wide enough.

This is no big deal...truth is, most large wood slabs, and even smaller ones, are nothing but smaller pieces of wood glued and clamped together...most table tops are constructed that way!

After I let the piece sit for a day or so, (I was busy priming, sanding and painting my bedroom furniture...can't wait to finish and share!) I used wood filler to fill any gaps in the joints, sanded the piece smooth and traced the broken piece onto the wood...

....then I cut it out with a skill saw and dremel.

This is not a job for the faint of heart, impatient people or someone who has had more than 1 cup of coffee. You have to go slow and use a light, steady hand. I actually cut on the outside of my mark and then used sand paper to sand down to the mark.

This process would have gone a bit quicker had the wood not split a time or two. It never split at the glued joints, just on the grain, which meant I had to glue and clamp the split and wait! Grrrr.....

Anywho, after hand sanding and sculpting for a few hours, I had a piece that was pretty darn close to the original! Then it was just a matter of priming, sanding and painting it.

I reconstructed the chair and hit the entire back with another light coat of paint and sealer.

Presto...ALMOST good as new! Can you tell which is which?

I can...the chair on the left is the repair. The big difference is the "lines" that are missing from the middle...after all the cutting and sculpting and sanding, I wasn't going to risk messing it up by trying to chisel lines in the wood.

And I will be honest...fitting it all back together was NOT as easy as it sounds...there was some additional sanding and grinding and even a few curse words! But in the end it turned out pretty good!

Also, I noticed the paint has "yellowed" over time. That is pretty common for "whites." Something to keep in mind when contemplating "touch ups." There is a good chance you will have to paint the entire project if the color has faded, yellowed or changed over time!

Now that it is repaired and I feel good that it will hold up, I plan on selling this chair and the matching one and the two caption chairs so I will have room for my mid century chairs when I get them refinished.

If I bring one in, I have to take one out!!!

Hopefully I will get that done before Thanksgiving...or we may all be sitting on lawn chairs!

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Precious little metal "ice cream" chairs before and after!

I bought these pathetic little chairs at an auction last fall....

...neglected for who-knows how many years in an old outbuilding. Rusted, rotten...so sad.

Then they were neglected for months in my garage because of the "rust issue" I just had no desire to tackle. But I did...and truthfully, it is not that big of a deal (check out how to deal with rust here)....

Then they sat in my garage for ANOTHER month.

They are so darling and I knew I wanted to do something bright and fun with them...I just didn't know what. I get serious mental blocks on upholstery projects!

(I can always tell how long a "project" has been around just by the grass...in the "before" pictures my bermuda is dormant...now it is lush and green and needs to be mowed twice a week!)

So I went to the fabric store and found the brightest and most colorful fabric I could find!

Red for the frame...red is cheerful and fun and since the fabric had every color imaginable, it was perfect!

After dealing with the rust and giving them a good dose of primer (and of course the primer had to cure for a month while I mulled over colors), I sprayed the frames with red spray paint. I cut new seats and backs out of 3/8" plywood and covered them with new batting and the bright fabric .

Here is a little hint...if the "frame" where the back goes is 11", do not cut a new board 11", cover it with new fabric and batting, and expect it to fit. It won't.

The big button (almost) dead center in the flower was a fluke! The original back had a big button and I knew I wanted a button.

So this gives me the perfect opportunity to share how to make buttons for any project...chairs, pillows, headboards! Anything that has or needs a button...you can MAKE one out of any fabric!

Just buy a button kit...they have them at the fabric stores and most hobby stores. There is a template on the back for the fabric cutout and they come in all different sizes....

They are super easy to make! Just follow the directions on the back of the package!

TIP...put a dab of hot glue on the back of the front of the button before you hammer the back on and then put a dab of hot glue on the little U hook on the back of the button. A few times the back has separated from the front or the little U hook has come off the back...the glue just reinforces them a bit!

To attach the button, I measured and located the center of the board, drilled two small holes, threaded wax covered string on a large upholstery needle from back to front, through the front padding and fabric, slipped the button on the string, then threaded it back through and tied it off. Then I put a little dab of hot glue on the knot. Super simple!

I padded the back with a little batting and covered it with red fabric!

I love these little chairs...if I had somewhere to put them, I would keep them! Darling!

When I step outside my comfort zone and go with bright and colorful, I am never disappointed...maybe I should take that into consideration next time I makeover something I intend to keep!

And here is a little "upcycle" hint. I had an old outdoor chair cushion that was thrown in a pile of things I picked up at an auction. The fabric was crud but the batting inside was good. I took the fabric off and used the batting that was inside for this chair and saved the rest for future projects. Free padding!

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Nasty little chair makeover...PART I!

My INTENT was to get this chair done this week so I could feature it. The weather and a bum back kind of slowed me down. But I got it done...but I am still going to break this up into a "Two Part Series" because the work that had to be done was pretty extensive. If you just want to see the before and after, check out Part II and scroll to the bottom!

This gives me a great opportunity to stress the importance of TAKING YOUR TIME and DOING IT RIGHT!

The simplest little makeover takes time. You can't rush the process. Strip it properly, sand it properly, prime it properly, paint it properly! Otherwise you are wasting your time and money!

My newest project is very similar to a chair I did for Sis....it was one of my first "features" here. (I wish I had taken better pictures to show all the detail!) The paint part was a tad easier because it didn't have to be stripped first. But it was one of my first upholstery jobs, and the more experience you get, the easier it is. Okay, it doesn't get easier...you just know it is going to be a challenge.

One thing I have learned about upholstery...no two pieces are the same and ALL have their challenges. You learn to be creative, take your time, and use the proper tools...more on that when we get into the actual upholstery process!

I spied this pathetic little chair sitting outside an apartment...obviously it was being neglected and unloved! And then it was abandoned! So I tossed it in the back of my truck and brought it home. As with most projects, it sat and waited for inspiration (and time).

I know many tout the virtues of chalk and plaster paint. No sanding, no prep, no prime. But 1) I am old school and 2) the paint on this chair was literally crumbling off and I could scrape the white paint off with my fingernail!

I wasn't going to risk painting this chair only to have the old paint flake off! Besides, I have to have a nice smooth "template." So my best bet was to strip, sand, prime and paint.

First I had to remove the old upholstery. I'm not sure what is worse...a seriously botched attempt to "cover" the old upholstery or doing so and leaving the old upholstery intact. Which means I had to remove the 8,324 staples someone used to haphazardly attach the disgusting green fabric and the 6,352 upholstery nails (these are just estimates) used on the original disgusting fabric.

Regardless of what you are removing...good or bad...I always suggest taking TONS of pictures while you deconstruct. You THINK you will remember how something was constructed, but you may not. It is always good to have pictures to refer back to! When I took my first shot at reupholstering a chair I took hundreds of pictures as I deconstructed it...boy was I glad later when I got stuck on something and wasn't sure what to do! I just referred back to the picture of the original and I knew exactly what I needed to do!

After hours of pulling, prying and cursing, I was down to bare bones (both the chair and my hands!)

Once I got all the old upholstery off, I addressed the little "wobbles." This chair was in pretty good shape structurally but it is important to make sure all the joints are secure and tight. Glue and clamps! Don't move forward on a project like this until you make sure everything is in tip-top shape. You don't want to be glueing and clamping after you have a shiny new finish on!

Now it was time for a little strip job.

I used Citristrip jel to remove the multiple layers of paint! It actually took 2 applications. An old toothbrush on all the nocks and crannies. I used a mineral spirit wash to remove all the "goo." Then I let it all dry thoroughly.

I know stripping old finish and paint is a tedious, nasty, back-breaking process...and I have no doubt it is the reason someone came up with the idea of mixing plaster and paint. But again, my "old-school" mentality just won't let me move forward without properly stripping all the old paint off.

I don't paint over wallpaper, I don't tile over vinyl, I don't upholster over old upholstery. I just don't. Call me crazy.

Then I sanded....and sanded....and sanded! Getting all the old paint out of the grooves in the legs was not an easy task...but absolutely essential! This is exactly why I always keep old toothbrushes with my shop tools!

After sanding, I primed it with Kilz. I like Kilz for several reasons. For me, it is my personal preference after years of experience. Others swear by Zinsser. This is just one of those things you need to experiment with and do what works best for you! Regardless, I will ALWAYS recommend an oil-based primer!

Nine times out of ten I am going to prime a piece before I paint it. I am not willing to take the risk of "bleed through", I want a smooth finish and I want my paint to stick! On rare occasions I will not apply a primer if I am going to use chalk/plaster paint and plan to distress the piece. But even then I prime areas I suspect might bleed through or cause problems.

Anywho, after I got MOST of the old paint off and sprayed on the primer, I let it dry thoroughly. Then I sanded, and sanded, and sanded...again. I started with a 80-120 grit, and finished with a 220.

I like to sand. Or rather I like how the piece feels and looks after it has been primed and sanded. And in my opinion, "feeling" is the key!

Funny story...years ago I was feeling quite smug about the fact that I had not gotten all those nasty little wrinkles all my friends had around their eyes and mouths and on their neck. Until I put my readers on one day to pluck my eyebrows...and there they were.

Even though I finally broke down and got prescription glasses, I still don't trust my eyes to see all the imperfections...but I do trust my hands. As I sand, I "feel." If you can feel it, it will show through a coat of paint!!! Sanding transforms the piece and if done properly, it can mean the difference between having a piece that is beautiful and professional or one that looks like an inexperienced DIYer threw it together!

After priming and sanding, I used my compressor to blow the dust off and then tack cloth to get rid of all the little smidges of dust and debris! I know I harp on using tack cloth...I can not stress how important this step is!

My original plan was to paint the chair a "blush/salmon/coral" color and then upholstery it in black damask. I saw a chair almost identical to this one in those colors SOMEWHERE...and then I couldn't. What I could find was a lot of teal and damask...and since this is a piece that will be sold, I decided I had to go with what is obviously "in." A "pink" chair can be risky! Pretty, but risky!

So teal it is....

The trick to spray painting anything (besides the prep work) is to do 3-4 VERY light coats...let it dry for 30-45 minutes between coats. If you get a drip or run (which you shouldn't if you do LIGHT coats) let it dry OVER NIGHT and then carefully and lightly sand it with a VERY fine grit sand paper! Tack and then lightly spray it again.

After the paint dries I gave it a good coat of clear poly finish. Probably overkill considering the Valspar spray paint I use SAYS it is an "all in one." Again, I'm old school. You clear coat everything.

The key now is to WAIT. Wait and let the paint dry and cure for a few days. Upholstery can put a lot of wear and tear on a piece so you want the paint to be cured before you begin working on the upholstery.

And as you can see, this piece has some serious reconstruction to do before I can ever begin to put the fabric on! I'll make sure I take good pictures and share step-by-step instructions on how to reconstruct and reupholster this chair!

IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT....TAKE YOUR TIME!

Stay tuned! Part II is on its way!

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Nasty little chair makeover...before and after....PART II

(If you just want to see the "Before and After" just scroll to the bottom!)

Okay, so the frame is stripped, primed and painted....(see part 1 of this makeover here)

Now comes the fun part! Finishing it up with the fabric!

Before we start reupholstering, this chair had to have a little "reconstruction."

This chair had a "spring seat." Some will have wood seats. Those are a little easier, even if you have to cut a new piece of plywood. But this one had springs and the twine holding them upright and in position had busted. And one of the nails holding the brace had popped out. So I had to reattach the brace and then restring the springs. Not a biggy, but something you definitely want to get right or the seat will be all wonky.

I used plain ole' twine to restring the springs and I removed the old nails and put in screws. Just personal preference and besides, if the string broke at any time, it would be a lot easier to remove the screws and start over than pry out nails.

If your chair has springs and they are in bad shape or you just don't want to mess with them, they are easy to remove. You can measure and cut a piece of plywood to put down in the base of the chair. Then screw the plywood on the frame of the chair and proceed with new foam and batting.

After fixing the springs, I covered them with a scrap fabric I have in my stockpile (I buy sturdy fabric at garage sales just for this purpose) and stapled it to the top of the seat frame. You can also use muslin or burlap. This fabric holds the springs in place and provides a base for the foam. Again, this is not something you would mess with if you have or add a wood seat base.

Next, you want to measure and cut your new foam. I used 2" foam.

TIP: A few years ago I read a little tip about using an electric bread knife to cut foam. I happened to stumble across one for $1 at a garage sale. For years I have used a utility knife and scissors to cut my foam. Man oh man....I can not tell you how easy it is to cut foam with a bread knife...it is like cutting butter and your cut is as straight as a factory cut....total awesomeness! Why I didn't try this sooner is beyond me...typical "old school" stubborness. Live and learn!

After I cut the foam for the seat, I covered the foam with the scrap fabric and stapled it to the frame as well. Again, just to hold the foam in place and give it a smooth structure.

TIP: Many people try to reupholster using a manual or electric stapler. Forget it. I don't care how hard you try, a plain staple gun (manual OR electric) is NOT going to work. Old wood is just too hard for the staples to set well and you will spend half your time hammering the staples in...provided your hand doesn't fall off first. I STRONGLY recommend getting a small compressor and pneumatic staple gun. You won't regret it! It is one of items I highly recommend in my "Every Woman's Tool Box." Perfect for this kind of project!

The back of this chair is rather simple, but it needed new webbing and support. You can buy burlap upholstery strapping specifically for this type of project, but since I had some scraps of burlap on hand, I made some straps...I just folded it, ironed it and then stapled it place. Just make sure it is taunt. Then I covered the entire back with the scrap fabric to give it a little more support....

Then I covered the back of the chair and the seat and frame of the chair with quilt batting. I use plain ole' quilt batting you can buy at the hobby or fabric store. Just staple the batting to the underside of the frame.

I picked up several rolls of batting after Christmas for 90% off...80 cents each! It doesn't have the "loft" of quilt batting but it works great on places where you want more structure than loft, like on the back of this chair.

Now comes the fun part...actually covering the chair!

Before I began applying the fabric, I made sure I had the piping I wanted to use ready to go. I provided a little tutorial on how to make piping here but you may be able to find a better tutorial online. Use the one that you understand! I HIGHLY recommend using prepackaged bias tape rather than trying to make it out of the fabric you are using. Mainly because you have to cut your strips of fabric "on the bias" which means at a 45 degree angle across the width of the fabric...that takes a lot of work and a lot of fabric. Bias tape comes in a ton of colors! In this case I am using black pipping with a black and beige damask...nice contrast and super easy to make. You can also buy premade piping or trim, but honestly it is a tad expensive.

Speaking of fabric. You don't have to use upholstery fabric but you want to make sure you use a very sturdy fabric. In order for an upholstery job to look "professional" you will be stretching it very tight and stapling it and if you use a light-weight fabric it can easily tear. The least expensive is duck fabric...you can find it at Hobby Lobby or most fabric stores. It is the lightest weight fabric I would use. I have also used drop cloth fabric and it works pretty well!

I usually start with the back of my chair...only because in my opinion it is the hardest and I want to get the most frustrating part over first. Just my preference!

There are a few areas that are a little tricky. One is the arms...here is a little "picture tutorial" on how I deal with this....

To cover the "gap" created by cutting around the arms, I inserted a little "filler" piece. I just folded down and iron the side adjacent to the arm, put a little fabric glue on the back, and stuck it on the chair and stapled. Then I wrapped the front fabric around the sides and stapled it to the back.

I wrapped a double welt trim with fabric glue on the back around the arm and over the fabric where I cut it...and then stapled it to the back to secure it. Here is a great tutorial on how to make this welting. You will notice that the tutorial shows how to make it out of the upholstery fabric. Again, I recommend plain ole' bias tape! If you can sew a straight stitch, you can make this. If you can't, you can purchase it at the fabric or craft store! You won't need a lot for this type of project.

This may seem like a tricky thing to do....patience. Take your time and THINK. And if you stripped the original upholstery and took lots of pictures (like I told you to!) you will have a great reference on how it was originally constructed. It really isn't as hard as it seems! The most important tip I can give at this point (other than be patient and work slowly) is make sure you keep your fabric pulled tight before you staple!

Cover the front first and staple it to the back of the chair. After you have covered the front of the chair, you can add your piping by stapling it to the back of the chair, circling the entire edge.

You may have noticed that this chair has a really pretty curve. There is NO substitution for PLY GRIP. In order to upholster a chair, you have to have it. And you don't need a lot....just enough to go along the top of the chair because it is the only place you will use it. I can tell you craft stores do not carry ply grip. When I reupholstered my wing back I stopped in an upholstery shop and bought about 5-6' for around $1 a foot. When I decided to get serious and do a few more projects I ordered a large roll online from DIY Upholstery Supply. I got 100 feet for $14.00, plus shipping. This site is a great resource for all things upholstery!

In this picture you can see how I stapled the trim around the edge. Then I stapled a little batting at the edge of the trim. Then I applied the ply grip.

This stuff "bites" so be careful. It comes with little holes in it so that you can use upholstery nails, but I just use my pneumatic stapler and staple it on, making sure that the edge of the ply grip is pushed tight against the piping. You only apply it along the top of the chair and about 1-2" down the side. It is very flexible and very easily follows the "lines" of the chair...whether it is curved or straight!

I attached the back fabric along the BOTTOM first. I used upholstery cardboard tack strip to get a nice crisp line. Then I stretched the fabric to the top and shoved it into the ply grip with a putty knife. Start in the middle and work you way to the edges...keep the fabric pulled tight as you work it into the ply grip.

After you have the fabric pushed down into the ply grip, make sure there is no fabric ABOVE the depth of the grip...if there is, just trim it off. Then take a hammer or rubber mallet and tap the ply grip shut. I would STRONGLY suggest putting a piece of scrap fabric between the hammer and the chair as you tap it shut.

As I mentioned earlier, lighter weight fabrics can pose a few problems when used as upholstery. Duck cloth does fairly well with the stress of the tugging and pulling and stapling...but occasionally even it might have a little "tear." I had this happen on the edge of this chair back. A tiny bit of the ply poked through. The only thing I could do (besides start over and that wasn't happening) was dab it with a little upholstery glue to keep it from tearing any more...and then I used a black sharpie to "hide" the little problem. (Again, I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL!)

Before using ply grip, I strongly recommend spending a little time online googling as many tutorials as you can on how to apply it. You may be totally confused by my instructions...but completely understand another! It really isn't that difficult and seriously makes a huge difference!

"Professional upholsters" use metal tacking strip to fold over the outside edges on the back...not me. I just fold them over and use fabric glue. Probably not the smartest thing to do, but for me it is the easiest...and it holds!

After the top is done, I tackle the seat. In my opinion it is a tad easier. Just lay the fabric on the seat and make sure you have enough all the way around to staple it to the underside of the seat frame. You will have to cut slits on the corners to work around frame, but again, patience...take your time. And keep your fabric pulled tight before you staple. When working with a seat, whether it is a project like this or a simple dining room seat, it is always best to attach your fabric on all four sides FIRST...just put 2-3 staples in the middle of each side, and then start working your way towards the legs.

Also...PAY ATTENTION TO THE DIRECTION OF YOUR FABRIC!! Make sure it is all running in the right direction. I used this damask on another project and discovered that I had applied it "upside down" on the seat. And one time I worked real hard to get a peacock smack dab in the middle of the seat of a chair...only to discover that it was upside down. Frustrating. So check and double check before you start pounding in the staples!

After my seat was completely covered, I edged the entire thing with trim...then I added a simple black fabric to the underside to hide all the innards. I use a cardboard edging on the front of the chair just to get a nice crisp line and then folded the fabric and stapled on the sides and back.

Remember what we started with way back when....

And this is what we have today! Amazing....

Before and After....

This truly is a "trash to treasure!" Now you know why I wanted to rescue the poor little thing!

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Dad's old tool bench....

One big "fad" right now are the old wood benches and tool boxes...."primitives." I've had a few in my booth and they fly out the door. Like this one I featured here....

I'm not really in to all the "primitive" decor...including old wood benches and tool boxes. But it dawned on me a while back that I had my dad's old wood work bench stored in one of my supply buildings at the apartments. And while I am not big on "vintage" or "primitive," I am a huge fan of "heirlooms!"

He built this little bench and for as long as I can remember he carried his tools in it and even used it as a step stool!

When I finally dug it out, I found that it was in worse shape than I remembered....covered in some serious gunk, oil, filth and old paint! The top board and one of the cross boards had cracks! (Again, my photography skills just don't do it justice!)

Probably to be expected...I remember my dad using this bench when I was little. And I know I used it for many years. While I was stripping it I discovered old royal blue paint all over it...royal blue paint? Then I remembered...25 years ago I painted my sons' bunk beds royal blue...and evidently I used this old bench during the process.

It took some serious time and chemicals to strip off all the old paint and gunk. I didn't want to sand it because I want to retain all the "character" beat into the wood from decades of use!

I don't know if dad used a skill saw to cut the boards when he built this, but I have no doubt he used a hand saw to cut the Vs in the legs...you could actually see the saw marks!

After removing all the old paint and gunk, I even found where someone (me?) had carved tic-tac-toe markings in the wood!

After removing all the paint and gunk with chemical removers, I scrubbed the wood with lacquer thinner and steel wool and then washed it with mineral spirits. Then I let it dry out for several days.

I really debated what to do with the little bench at this point. I know it would be really pretty with a nice coat of paint...maybe distressed a bit. But the "character" in the wood is amazing and I really hesitate to do anything to cover any of it!

So for now I just coated it with some tung oil finish. Maybe someday I will get a stroke of inspiration and do something different. Until then I will just admire it for what it is...an old tool bench that my dad built and used.

That, in my book, makes it priceless just as it is!

This is a prime example of WHY you should take anything and everything someone in your family gives you...it may seem like trash at the time, but someday it will be a true treasure. My dad has been gone 19 years...anything I have of his is a treasure!

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Drexel Declaration Mid Century coffee table...

I know I am always talking about how AWESOME some of my furniture finds are, but this is truly an AWESOME piece!!! Mid century and walnut...my absolute favorites! (Check out some of my other mid century finds and makeovers here!)

We scored this coffee table at an auction. I probably should have flipped it over and looked for markings before bidding, but it is pretty big and honestly, I didn't want to draw too much attention to it (gotta be "cool" at the auctions!) When I bid on it, I knew nothing about it other than it was walnut and mid century! Structurally, it was in mint condition and I knew it could be spectacular with a little elbow grease. The scratches and water sports were not too bad! We were told it had been stored in an old outbuilding for years....I believe it!

The piece is marked on the bottom. It is a Drexel Declaration coffee table. A relatively "rare" piece with a good value!

As I have said before, it is not the "profit value" that motivates me. It is the absolute LOVE I have for this furniture.

It has been in my garage for months. I just didn't have the time or space to mess with it! The first thing I had to do was strip it. Keep in mind the finish on these pieces are 50+ years old so the old varnish has "yellowed" over time. And of course there is all the wear and tear...scratches, water damage, worn finish! But you CAN NOT strip old paint or varnish inside. The chemicals are just too strong and stripping and sanding does make a bit of a mess so I made sure I got all stripping and sanding done before it got too cold to work outside! (I really need a heated shop!)

I almost always use Formby's furniture refinisher to strip old varnish. I find that it really does a great job of "melting" the old finish off while hydrating the wood. Occasionally I may have to use something a little stronger and on very rare occasions I will actually sand the piece. I did take some sand paper to this piece only because there were several "water stains" that just couldn't be chemically removed.

I can not stress enough how important it is to CAREFULLY sand old furniture! Veneers can be very thin and it is easy to get carried away! Always start with a fine grain paper (220 grit) and work your way to a heavier grit ONLY if you need it. Then work your way back to a fine grit!

You may not be able to remove every stain or imperfection. And that is okay! Old and antique pieces are going to have imperfections! Embrace them! My office desk I featured here is a prime example....

Try as I might, I could not get this old cigarette burn to go away...and that's okay. It is a constant reminder of one of the many reasons I shouldn't start smoking again!

Fortunately I was able to get almost all the "imperfections" off the coffee table.

Also, most finishes were originally applied in a way to make the wood grain appear "uniform." A multi-layer technique may have been used or the finish and stain were sprayed on. Once the original finish is removed, you are likely to find that the wood grain no longer has a "uniform" appearance. Again, embrace it!

After making sure I removed ALL the old finish, I "washed" the entire piece with mineral spirits. This is an important step when refinishing furniture whether you are applying a clear finish or painting. It removes all the gunk and oils. Then I hit is with a very fine sandpaper just to knock down the grain a bit.

The mineral spirit wash will also give you an idea of what color the wood will be when you apply a clear finish. Most woods will be a completely different color stripped than it will after a clear finish has been applied. After you wash the piece with mineral spirits, the wood will eventually dry back to a natural color, but while it is wet you will be able to tell what color it will be after a clear finish is applied and whether you will want to apply a darker or different color stain. I personally love the color of natural walnut after a clear finish is applied, so rarely will I apply a stain.

After wiping the piece down with mineral spirits, I wiped the entire piece down with tack cloth to remove dirt and dust. Again, you can wipe down a piece all day with the cleanest cloth...I can promise you the tack cloth will find more! Use it and use it between EVERY coat of finish or paint!

After stripping, sanding and tacking, I began applying the Formby's tung oil. I love this stuff...in my opinion it is a superior finish to poly! Super easy to apply and much less room for error. If it gets scratches in the future, just hit it with 0000 steel wool, tack cloth and then apply another coat of tung oil. Simple!

Because of the weather, I had to apply the tung oil inside. The smell and fumes from tung oil is not that bad. Steel wool itself tends to crumble and create "dust" so I decided to try something new...which is NOT something I do easily! I picked up these little "finishing pads." They seem to work pretty well! I still favor the steel wool, but the pads produced far less "dust" than the steel wool!

A little trick when painting or refinishing...place aluminum foil under the feet/base after you are finished sanding and tacking. Most paint and finish won't stick to aluminum foil (unlike paper) and it will protect your floor and keep dust from being dragged onto the base when applying the finish!

I usually apply 3-5 coats of tung oil. I use a "stain sponge." You can usually find them in the stain section at Lowe's. Three coats is usually enough, but if I still feel the finish is "uneven" I will continue to apply coats until I get an even "gloss" look. ALWAYS rub it down with 0000 steel wool and tack cloth between each coat.

Whether you use steel wool or finishing pads or sand paper, make sure you always sand WITH the grain.

"Sanding" and tack cloth between each coat is VERY important. I used tack cloth before I applied the first coat of tung oil and I could still see and feel "crumbs" after it dried!!!

I love this piece. I think it looks a tad too big for my living room, but I just can't bring myself to part with it! Honestly, I think I would like it a bit better if I had a bigger rug. This one has always been a tad too small, but it was cheap and I just needed something to throw down to keep our toes warm! With an old kitty in the house, you don't invest too much in rugs.

So I have been looking...Joss and Main...Overstock...I'm looking! Someday.

(UPDATE! Yep, that is the NEW rug...featured it here...and I seriously love it! I am so honored to be featured on betterafter.net! Gail asked to see the inside, so here is a picture with the top open. As you can see it has a little compartment with a sliding drawer. The inside was in mint condition, so I did not do anything to it!)

and Better After!

and Curbly.com

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Cabinet door chalkboards....

I just assume everyone has old cabinet doors laying around...probably a silly assumption! But I see old cabinets all the time at garage sales and thrift stores. If you can find inexpensive old cabinets with decent doors, buy the cabinet and use the doors to make these super cool chalkboards! Or stop by your local Habitat for Humanity...they have TONS of old doors for cheap!

I just happened to have a bunch of cabinet doors stacked up in storage at my apartments...ones I had saved for whatever reason. I decided to put them to good use! (I have no doubt I will need one next week...always happens!)

First remove all the old hardware and fill the holes with wood putty. Some doors have European hinges and those leave big holes...just ignore them! They are on the back...no one will see them!

Next, sand the door with a 110 or 220 grit paper...just enough to knock the shine off the finish...then use TACK CLOTH!!!

I always paint the back or underside of any project first...that way when I flip it to do the top I don't feel too terribly bad if I ding or scratch the back or underside!

You are going to use chalkboard paint in the center of the front, so you only have to paint the back and the frame of the front.

I painted all these cabinet doors different colors since I will be putting them in my flea booth.

I spray painted a few with bright colors, so I primed those with Kilz (sanding and tack cloth between coats!). I used plaster paint (no primer) on a few and sanded the edges.

Regardless of the paint you use, always apply 1-2 coats of clear coat to seal the paint. Do this BEFORE applying the chalkboard paint!

Let the paint and clear coat dry over night and then tape off the frames with painter's tape.

I wanted to try the new Frog tape because I have read really outstanding reviews but I could NOT find the roll I bought last week...it is here somewhere, I just can't find it. So I used good ole' blue painter's tape.

Several months ago I bought a quart of black chalkboard paint at Lowes. I have used it on several projects and it really is outstanding. When Katie wanted "chalkboard" walls, we just used Valspar flat paint since we needed 2 gallons and it has worked great!

I think for this size project, the "real" chalkboard paint is worth the investment.

I used a brush for the corners and edges and then I used a 4" sponge roller. I applied 3 coats.

After all the paint dries, put a hanger on the back. I used cup pulls for the little tray for chalk.

This is a fairly simple and inexpensive project! If you have any old cabinet doors sitting around or stumble across a few at a garage sale or thrift store, give it a shot!

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Outdoor lighting....

I have wanted new exterior lighting for sometime. After all, the existing fixtures have been there for 13 years. It's not that I necessarily "dislike" the fixtures I have. I seriously considered just painting them. Because let's be honest... replacing all 3 fixtures could set me back a tad.

Last Friday I found three pretty ratty fixtures at a garage sale...$5 for all three!!!! Wow...what a deal. And it was exactly what I needed...2 wall mount and a hanging fixture. But they definitely needed some work. So I walked away!

But believe it or not I actually dreamed about the stupid things Saturday morning...so I got up early and went back to the house where they were having the garage sale to see if they were still there....AND THEY WERE!

Of course they were. Seriously, they were pretty ugly.

I think they were originally an antique bronzed finish and someone had sanded the finish off so they were just a grey metal...and seriously dirty. And the glass....major yuk!

I really love the mid century modern style in just about everything. I'm not sure what you would classify these as...not mid-century.... but I really like their "bones." I knew with a little paint, maybe some new glass and a little rewiring, they would be nifty little fixtures!i

The first thing I did was remove all the glass and then removed all the sockets and wiring. They were in pretty bad shape and the worst thing you can do is ignore brittle and charred wiring and electrical sockets. They are easy to replace. Kind of like plumbing,...just take it all to Lowe's and walk around looking stupid...SOMEONE will help you "rebuild" the things you need to replace!

I put all the fixtures in dishwasher....believe it or not it is the easiest way to clean most stuff if it will fit!! After a good cleaning I primed them with auto primer, sanded with steel wool, tack cloth and then painted them with an exterior satin black spray paint!

Then came the challenging part...reinstalling all the electrical elements...sockets, nuts, bolts, wiring....honestly, it wasn't that difficult! Again, just put it all back together just like you took it all apart (taking LOTS of pictures as you dismantle anything is always helpful!)

After it was all back together, it was time to take down the old fixtures and put up the "new."

First rule of any electrical work....MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF!

Let me save you a spill off your ladder. ALWAYS assume there will be wasp, spiders and other undesirable critters lurking in holes and crevices. Light boxes are no exception. I found wasp nests and HUGE spiders in all three light boxes after I removed the fixtures. So remove the existing fixtures carefully and always keep wasp spray and spider spray handy!!! Expect a critter or crawler and you won't fall off the ladder from fear (again, I don't tell you things because I THINK it might happen!)

I initially installed the fixtures without glass...because honestly, I kind of knew what I wanted but didn't know where to get it. I checked out a local stained glass store and found EXACTLY what I wanted. A clear glass with little bubbles in it. Not exactly cheap, but considering I didn't pay much for the actual fixtures, it was worth it.

If you notice, I have fallen in love with the new "Edison bulbs" that are all the rage which is why I wanted something clear to show off the bulbs...this "blown glass" look is exactly what I wanted...clear but with a little character.

These bulbs aren't "mid century" but I think they are just soooo cool looking.

But I warn you...they are expensive! Around $9 each so you would probably want to use them sparingly in special places. And I have no idea how they will hold up outside, exposed to the heat and cold. I guess we will see!

But I like the look...and since I don't have a huge amount of money invested in each fixture (new wiring, paint, glass) I won't feel too badly if I decide to switch them out! Probably in another 13 years...